Clothing Through the Ages: Elite Textiles in Central Asia

November 13, 2024

The Development Office together with the Anthropology and International Development Department  at AUCA has organized the opening lecture on the reconstruction and preservation of a historical robe from the Bolgan-Ana mausoleum, dating back to the Jochi Ulus era of Kazakhstan, funded with the support of the “OSUN TSI Fellowship Support at AUCA”. The lecture was presented by Ms. Tetyana Krupa, a Threatened Scholars Integration Initiative (TSI) Fellow of the Open Society University Network (OSUN).

On November 6, 2024, a lecture by Ms. Tetyana Krupa, Head of the Laboratory of Conservation and Restoration of Cultural Heritage "UMAI" of the Institute of Archaeological Research of the Pavlodar Pedagogical University named after A. Margulan, was held at the American University of Central Asia (AUCA).

It attracted not only students and faculty but also representatives from the Embassy of Ukraine in Kyrgyzstan, including Consul Denis Avtonomov.

Young restorers and staff members National Museum of History Argen Emil uulu and Bayaman Isabekov also attended. They are currently working with Tatiana and gaining new knowledge and skills in the field of archaeological textile conservation and restoration. AUCA President Timothy O’Connor opened the lecture, welcoming the speaker and guests, expressing gratitude for their contribution to cultural heritage preservation, and hoping for further fruitful collaboration.

Ms. Tetyana Krupa shared with the audience the intricate aspects of the restorer’s profession and described the multi-step process of conserving and restoring archaeological textiles. A highlight was the restoration of clothing associated with Bolgan Ana. Attendees learned about ancient silk-making techniques, including gold threads less than half a micron thick, crafted manually on the serous membrane of the intestine. This unique technique was used until the 15th century. Silk produced in this way was extremely valuable: according to historical sources, one kilogram of silk was equivalent in value to three kilograms of gold.

In addition, Ms. Tetyana Krupa presented findings from a study of silk clothing from Orto-Tokoi, dating back to the 11th century. Based on the analysis of the first clothing set, fragments of a yellow-blue robe and an indigo-colored shirt with a unique, previously unknown pattern, as well as miniature fabric buttons and fastenings, were identified. These discoveries provide insights into ancient fashion and reflect the social status of the elite at that time. Tatiana expressed hope that further research into written sources would shed more light on the people who wore these garments and the era they belonged to.

For a closer look at the ancient textiles, guests had the opportunity to examine samples on tablets, which allowed them to better understand the restoration process and see how restorers bring history back to life.

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